Discovery of Wanchi- Traditional Yeast
By
Paljen T. Sangma
In the lore of the Garo People, the A∙chik are revered as half human and half spirit beings believed to embody both human and spiritual essence, intricately connected to the elements of nature such as animals and plants. In the times when the land was in its youth, a profound interrelation thrived among all aspects of nature, fostering communication not only amongst themselves but also with the revered deities. Although the A∙chik primarily inhabited the Earth's surface, the realms of the deities resided in A•ningsni mitdap, seven layers beneath the earth, which comprised varying strata of land and water.
The deities frequently celebrate the harvest festival, Wanbola, characterised by drumbeats and the offering of bitchi, or rice beer, as a token of gratitude for the plentiful crops. Integral to the festival is the rice beer, fermented with the sacred ingredient called Wanchi, a traditional yeast concocted from secret ingredients, including the wild fern known as sisarat.
During one such celebration, deep beneath the waters in the seven depths, a bird named Do•achak Do•kongsi, characterised by its melodious song "chiriri chiriri," stumbled upon the festivities. Intrigued, it ventured into the depths and observed Na•nil Susipa and Bigaranipa, the eels adorning the festival with the white impressions from the wanchi, partaking in the festivity. These eels demonstrated the method of preparing wanchi and rice beer, as well as the significance of the festival. Do•achak Do•kongsi was also enlightened about the rice beer's importance in rituals and its medicinal properties.
Filled with excitement and wonder, Do•achak Do•kongsi flew back and relayed the tale to his uncle and aunt, Ajri and Sani, who were esteemed as the Nokma, a respected couple renowned for their leadership and wisdom. The bird vividly demonstrated what he had witnessed, inspiring Ajri and Sani, who recognized the significance of bringing the celebration to the surface of the earth.
From that moment onward, they led their community in a new celebration, now known as Wangala. Wanchi was meticulously prepared, infused into the fermentation process of rice beer. Handprints made from Wanchi powder adorned the walls and doors of their homes, marking the occasion with reverence. Their modest dwelling was transformed into a vibrant symbol of festivity, as the aroma of Wanchi filled the air, bringing joy to all who encountered it.
The festivities continued until nightfall, culminating when the last drop of rice beer had been consumed, marking the conclusion of the celebration.
Since that pivotal day, Wanchi has transcended mere ingredient status; it has evolved into a symbol of A•chik culture, embodying the community's resilience and ingenuity. It serves as a poignant reminder of their profound connection to the land and the enduring traditions that have defined their identity for generations.
Rice beer holds significant cultural importance, extending even to funeral rites, where it is used to wash the face of the deceased before their final farewell.
Additionally, rice carries medicinal properties. For instance, lactating mothers are served rice after three months of childbirth. For this the rice beer is prepared six months prior to the expected delivery date. When it is ready, the first sip of the prepared rice beer is offered to the mother, believed to fortify her health and well-being.
